My design is based on the theme of funky horror which was inspired by Lucinda Wolber’s work, specifically the pieces with skeletal tattoos on wooden frames.  To me, skeletons are associated with death, evil and darkness.  This aesthetic can be traced back to the gothic punk look in the late 1970s.  It is a kind of attitude that people want to break away from the traditional norm to express themselves.  In my design, I used black leather to create a top with a cross shape that is associated with tombs.  On the other hand, with the concept of entertainment influence, I used bright colour fabric to create a funky feeling that refers to celebrities who always dress in an exaggerated fashion to get more attention.   It is a very contradictory look that also suggests that we live a full, vibrant life filled with adventure, danger and temptation life.

Keeping the topic of “sustainability in the fashion industry” in mind, I used recycled garments to recreate a new garment that still looks cool and wearable.  After doing a lot of research on sustainability, I found that ethical fashion is an ongoing project but still not widely practiced.  As a designer, trying to use sustainable fabrics or recycled garments to create a very unique piece is a good start.

The dress was designed with customers who are 20-35 years of age in mind. They like to express themselves in non-traditional way.  They are daring when trying something different and adventurous.  The clothes they like to wear are usually styled, cool, evil and a bit naughty.

Firstly, I cut out several rectangles from the plastic leather skirt and measured them on the mannequin to make the cross for the top.

This is rubber netting from Reverse Garbage.  I used it to embellish the neck line

Unpick the stitch line; this part is going to join with a zipper

On the front of the top, I made a crease on the both side to matched the body shape

Then I used elastic on the lower border to make it fitted the body bette

Then I measured the side seams and cut out two pieces of rectangular shaped fabric to make a backside of the top

I used top stitching all the way around the rectangular shape on the front, about 0.6 centimetres.

Joining the collar and the rectangle together- top stitching on the collar

Cut out several asymmetric shapes of two different colours from the shirt and then sew them together with small over lock to make it a bit puffy and give a layered effect.

I gathered a bit of fabric on the surface of the skirt by hand stitching to make it a bit puffy and create a draping effect.

The waistband is supposed to link the top and skirt together to make a one piece dress and then insert elastic on the top of the waistband to do some gathering and smooth the edge

Because my theme is funky horror, I ripped the hemline of the skirt to give it a kind of horror feel and also used black unravelled nylon rope to decorate the messy hemline

Join the top and skirt together

sew the zipper on

Joining the rubber netting and collar in order to decorate the neckline and make it look funky and interesting.

Because the zipper was not long enough to join the top from collar to the skirt, I used eye hooks on the collar to join them together.

Finished garment

There are two different types of natural dyes: substantive and adjective. A substantive dye is one that will colour the fibre without the use of a mordant e.g. indigo. The use of a mordant with a substantive dye extends their colour potential and increases their fastness.  There are many reasons why people are turning to natural dyes even though synthetic dyes are more convenient to purchase and dye with. Each plant provides an amazing diversity of shades. From one plant you may obtain between 5-15 varying colours and shades. These colours and shades are subtle and tend to harmonize with one another. The resulting fabrics or fibres are now original pieces – it is extremely difficult for anyone to duplicate exactly.

Also there is the question of ecology. As people become more aware of environmental factors dyers are searching for alternatives. Natural dyes are seen as more eco-friendly as, unlike their synthetic counterparts, they are all derived from nature. The dye baths can be neutralized effectively through the addition of either acid or alkaline and then poured down the sink, or on to the garden. Use litmus paper to test the “pH”, available at most chemists.

Global warming has the potential to upset the earth’s ecological systems on an unprecedented scale. Today, more and more people have the sense of sustainability that care more about their health and the ecological environment.  They want to live in harmony with the environment and use things in a way that can last longer.  For example, the clothing we wear in our everyday life is one of most harmful to affect our health.  We touch and wear it directly with our skin.  Chemical fibre clothing is not good for human health and the environment.  Furthermore, the processes of textile also cause many environmental problems.  Many people are aware of things need to be changed to protect our earth and make our life better.  They are willing to try something different no matters that cause them feel inconvenient now.  Even if they need to spend much more money on that, it is still worth it.  Sometimes you just need to give something then you can gain more.

Reading the article “Environmentally friendly textiles technologies” from design news made me think again about the cost which people are willing to pay for eco-friendly garments.  There is a significant gap between the consumers’ moral conscience and their economic willingness.  In the textile industry, more and more manufacturers are increasingly investing in new machinery, which requires less water and allows for greater efficiency when process chemicals are used.  The low labour costs, reduced energy usage, decreased consumption of water and less chemicals waste are great news for people who have an eco-friendly conscience.  They do not need to struggle between their willingness and financial ability.  Therefore, people can go for green fashion without having to spend a lot more.  Eco-friendly garments are no longer just a concept.   It is turning into a popular trend among the general public. 

Reference:

1. Eco-frinedly textiles technologies/Design news  www.dexigner.com/design_news/1078.html

2. Nature Dye http://www.greenfinder.com.au/eco/Dye

Bamboo is a material whose luxurious softness has been compared to cashmere. There are more than 1,000 bamboo species that are capable of growing in over 70 percent of the earth’s land area. It is one of the most renewable resources on Earth. A social and economic advantage of using bamboo is that plenty of bamboos are available in many rural areas where economic development is limited.  This means the production cost can be kept low yet providing much needed jobs and income for poor rural communities.  Farming of bamboo is very environmentally, responsible, renewable and sustainable practice.  As a plant it is fast growing and highly sustainable and is mainly naturally organic, especially compared to cotton.  It does not require replanting after harvest but will regenerate from its vast root structure. Bamboo helps to improve soil quality and helps rebuild eroded soil.  It’s been reported that bamboo takes in more carbon dioxide than a similarly sized stand of tree.  Furthermore, bamboo is natural cellulose fibre and the environment is not polluted by the bamboo’s process of decomposition.

There is also a growing diversity of new fabrics which all come under the ‘natural’ banner. As just style, an industry research and report publisher, states:

“Already a buzzword in the food business, the term organic is now being attached to new style fabrics. And not only are weavers eager to assure customers that the components of their latest collections are ’100% natural’ in origin; the trend is to dramatically extend the range of raw materials on which the textile trade can base new products.”

For example, A Japanese textile maker now offers clothing made from coconut fiber; you can also now buy clothing made from soya and even corn. An ethical product that also enjoys multiple high performance characteristics would expect be a top future performer by any standard. This is bamboo.

 Bamboo fabric is durable and breathable. It has incredible softness and a natural lustre, similar to fine cashmere. There are several desirable qualities of bamboo which makes it an appealing fabric choice.  It has antibacterial and antifungal properties, it absorbs water 3-4 times better than cotton and it can stay 2-3 degrees cooler in hot weather and warmer in cold weather.  Bamboo fabrics have a lot of advantages that cannot be matched by manufactured fabrics.  Also it would have less impact on our environment and can be beneficial to our health.  Bamboo is a kind of luxurious fiber similar to cashmere.  I think more designers now are using bamboo instead of cashmere or other delicate fabrics to create a high quality and luxurious clothing which is creating a new trend.

reference:

Bamboo cloth can be green

http://proquest.umi.com.ezp01.library.qut.edu.au/pqdlink?index=5&did=1023503461&SrchMode=1&sid=8&Fmt=3&VInst=PROD&VType=PQD&RQT=309&VName=PQD&TS=1250755072&clientId=14394

Ethical fashion involves taking into consideration the various people behind the clothes we wear and the environment. Ethical fashion can be defined as the product resulting from the hard work of fairly paid and considered workers. It is made from sustainable and affordable fabrics like organic cotton and by using traditional techniques like vegetable dyes, low impact fiver reactive dyes, thus proving to be on the healthy basis as the product for the farmer as well as the worker and finally for the wearer. The clothing industry is complex and all the clothes we wear have a story behind them. All the steps involved in the production of these trendy clothes affect the people working to grow cotton, to weave the fabric and make them. They also effect the environment that we live in.

There is a clear view taken up towards both organic as well as environment friendly clothing lines. This ethical fashion industry is really booming up. With the real rise in environmental fashion, you can find anything in the organic products section starting from right from the eco-jeans to anything like wooden lingerie. Apart from clothing, the fashion accessories have adopted the same trend with things like high heels, totes which are eco-friendly, purses and lot more. Today, eco-friendly products are made available without any compromise for the quality as well as the style. They keep changing with the new trend arriving in town. 

Many companies are trying to produce clothes in a way which benefits people and does not damage e environment. Recycling and customization are also being adopted by companies. Customers should make an effort to use clothes that have organic standards and fair trade standards, which make sure that the workers are paid a fair wage. One of the main driving forces of ethical fashion boom is public awareness. The present trend states that the people are becoming more concerned about the quantity rather than the quality.  At the same time, you can also find many of the designers  who represent their skill by producing exclusive designer wears with exceptional fabrics. The use of organic materials in designing has become a second nature to the designers everywhere as they are focused on saving this earth and also providing quality products to the consumers.

I think It is not necessary that we should be non-environment friendly to be on the glamour side of view. Let us be a part of the movement which rids the world of unethical clothing, helping to stamp out sweat shops exploitation and child labor in the clothing industry. Think healthy, wear healthy, live healthy. Make a positive choice to live green.

Regerence:

1. Make Wealth History www.makewealthhistory.org/2007/12/17/what-is-ethical-fashion/

2. Is the fashion industry eco-friendly? No  www.news.xinhuanet.com/english2010/indepth/2010-08/21c_13455291.htm

This image to me represents a horror in a humorous way.  The man seems to be choking on the balloons. That’s scary but unbelievable.  How can balloons be a killing tool?  It should be a lovely and joyful thing play with.  On the other hand, I was thinking that a human body with the pink balloons on the top of body like that can be understood as even tough or cold men still have soft heart inside, just that people cannot see it.

The scorpion on the back of dress symbolizes evil and mystery.  That got me thinking about a movie called Femme Fatale.  A woman who is seductive and has great charm leads men to compromise their values and get into dangerous situations.  The scorpion with the tailored black dress gives the woman a kind of fatal attraction and mysterious feel.

The scary wire

This image is very interesting and scary. The restaurant above is covered with such horrible wiring.  The cute signboard is surrounded by wires that it seems to be telling people that it is a safe and fun place and nothing to be scared about.  On the other hand, the image also symbolizes that people like doing something adventurous and exciting. Just like a roller coaster or free fall in an amusement park.  It is fun but dangerous.

These images are another symbol of horror in a humorous way.  The skeleton is always considered scary or associated with death. Yet in these pictures they are playful with a bit of fun and entertainment.  Death is not seen as scary in these images.  It seems to represent that we have an unexpected and interesting life full of adventure and get temptation.

Turning one person’s waste into another person’s resource isn’t new news to us at Fashion & Recycling. However this is still only on a small scale of what could be done to make a global difference. What if we started to re-use the clothing for necessities other than clothing? What if we used them to make blankets or bags for under privileged countries?  The textile and garment industries share in contributing to Global Warming from the growing of fibres through manufacturing through distribution and transportation of clothing to stores and customers through energy guzzling Laundromats and conventional dry cleaners and finally ending in mountains of discarded clothes and last year’s fashions rot in landfills. 

Millions of tons of clothing are tossed each year into garbage landfills where they rot and produce methane gas which is one of the by-products from the decomposition of organic materials. A major driving force to stuff landfills with used clothes is the “fast fashion” industry. Fast fashion is the trend to produce low cost, low quality, quickly changing fashion trends that can change several times in a single season. Low cost, mass market companies such as K-Mart and Target carefully target young, budget-conscious clothes hogs who load their shopping carts with the latest cheap clothing in the very latest colours and styles. When the next latest new trend appears at Target’s for $9.95 just chuck it out. I mean, it costs less than a movie ticket. Of course, at this price it probably was made in a sweatshop.

 I think that consumers of all ages must become aware that cheap, fast fashion comes at a very high cost to the environment and to exploited garment workers around the world. Recycling must become a pillar of our consumer culture especially in the U.S. where the recycling rate of household waste is less than 5%. Recycling now is a critical component of sustainability. All product designers, including fashion designers, they have to design sustainability and recyclability into all products beginning with the selection of materials and manufacturing processes. Think green clothing, sustainable clothing, and recycled clothing.  This will be a good idea that we all wearing something that is made from organic or a renewable resources, if we all start it, it will trend to the rest of the country so what are you wearing?

Reference:

1. Textile Recycling Initiative in New Delhi  http://dustfactoryvintage.com/labels/recycled%20clothing.html

2. Textile recycling  www.wasteonline.org.uk/resources/informationSheets/Textiles.htm

I got three different ideas from Lucinda Wolber‘s work.  Firstly from the materials she used, such as stained wood, lace and velvet.  The stained wood symbolizes nature but has an ancient and trashy feel.  The different graduations of the stains on the surface allow it to look not too dull. Velvet has always been considered a luxury fabric, and associated with high status.  The lace symbolizes romance, femininity and elegance.  The combination of velvet, lace and stained wood contrasts sharply.  In my design, I may create a luxury trashy or feminine funky look to give the garment a contradictory feel.

Concept Image-luxury trashy

Concept Image- feminine funky

The second idea I got from the concept of influence of entertainment.  People can derive pleasure from entertainment with celebrity and freak shows.  There will be two elements associated with my design that is glamorous and elegant looking.  I can use a layering effect to make it more interesting.  Similar to Japanese street fashion, which looks cute and lively.

Concept Image- Japanese street fashion

Thirdly, skeletons are usually associated with death, darkness and evil.  The skeletal tattoos make me think about the aesthetics of puck fashion from the 1970’s.  In general, modern punks wear leather, denim, spikes, chains, ripped clothing and combat boots.  Their hair is typically dyed in bright or unnatural colours.  I feel the punk look is a kind of attitude that people want to break away from the traditional norm to express themselves.  Also it is considered a rebellious behaviour to relive the freedom.  In my design, I might create a kind of outlandish, trashy look that is a decadent free style. 

Concept Image- outlandish look

The works created by Lucinda Wolber has evident social and popular cultural comment themes.  They explore the concept of the psychology of celebrity in the society.  With the influence entertainment media has on wide public views and the way in which they manipulate the truth for monetary gain.  She draws comparisons between celebrity and freak shows, fairytale and religion.  These works challenge the viewer to question what it is they are actually consuming when they read celebrity magazines or watch entertainment news programs.  She used a variety of materials to create her works including stained wood, velvet, lace, beads and original illustrations to create scenes and characters that are strongly influenced by the visual elements of Victorian illustration, tattoo and circus art and fairytale books with a dark twist.

Her works are very interesting.  Firstly, it got me thinking about the influence of entertainment in our society.  People are used to deriving pleasure or get information from public media.  With the celebrity news, I think it has a big impact on many different aspects of our lives.  What they wear, where they live and even their behaviour all affect the observer in subtle ways.  From a fashion point of view, the clothes that celebrities wear can often lead to the start of a trend.  It could be funky, stylish and avant-garde looking.  It’s also associated with Hollywood glamour from the red carpet; I feel the Oscars is celebrity fashion show and the audience pays a lot of attention to it and that’s why the celebrities get such lucrative offers to wear clothing, shoes and jewellery from all the top designers.

Secondly, another interesting thing is the skeletal tattoos on the wooden frames.  Skeletons are commonly associated with death, but now they seem to have turned into a reminder to live a full and vibrant life.  On the other hand, the skeletons also symbolize evil.  It seems like life is a dangerous and bold adventure full of promise and temptation.  In the depths of the human heart, there may be a dark side hiding and causing people to do something out of control and seemingly without reason.

I have thought about her works drawing a parallel between celebrity, freak show, fairytale books and religion.  There is confusion as of to what the truth behind the scene actually is.  Too often in today’s society we are flooded with a deluge of entertaining performances.  We respond to this flood of entertaining images on a very reactive and reflexive level.  Very rarely do we process the information enough to receive the message the performer is trying to convey.  Just like the fashion shows we watch all the time, we barely know the concepts behind the designs or the designer’s inspirations when we watch it.  All we can see and feel is that the clothes on display are beautiful and eye catching.

I think her work represents the performance of entertainment.  She uses a lot of different material to make it more interesting and eye catching in order to provoke a more considered cerebral response. 

Did you know the difference between organic and non-organic fabrics is the way it is grown?  Cotton that is grown with the use of pesticides is considered unhealthy and hazardous to the environment and human health in general.  When people use pesticides to grow their plants, they are doing more than many of us realize.  The chemicals from pesticides can easily seep into the ground and get into our drinking water, which is why there are so many warnings about drinking tap water.  People should buy organic cotton, because it helps to make a statement to the seller.  Cotton is now the most widely pesticide sprayed crop in the world.  There is no other plant in existence that is as weighed down with pesticides as cotton.

 I think people would buy organic clothes for lots of different reasons.  Some people buy organic clothing because it makes them feel safer knowing that they are doing something to protect their health.   More people realized that human skin can actually absorb chemicals from the fabric.  Human skin is like a sponge, many substances can be that may affect our health can be absorbed through it into the bloodstream, pesticides being one of them.   Others buy organic clothes because they want to do their part to protect the health of our planet.  And of course, if enough people start buying organic clothes, there will be people who will just jump on the band wagon and buy it because “that’s what everyone else is buying” and it becomes the fashionable thing to do.  The idea that “Eco-fashion is chic” has become very popular amongst general public.   Going for sustainable fashion is a fresh concept and that concept needs to be valued and nurtured.  As more people consciously choose to purchase organic cotton fabric, more manufacturers will start to offer this product.    

I also think the benefit of buying organic clothes is the way that it makes you feel.  There is an element of stress relief associated with knowing that you are doing something healthy and maintain the environment.  When you buy organic clothes, it can also help to increase your awareness in relation to going green.  All it takes are some simple changes in your life that will really awaken your natural instinct to protect the health of your own body, your environment and your family. 

However, in reality, the message of Eco-fashion has not yet been well delivered to consumers.  There is still a gap between the ideal and the consumers’ willingness to pay for it.  The reasons are a combination of price, perceived values and therefore lack of demand.  Many designers are trying to incorporate it into their lines.  In the fashion industry, we need to think about the constant dissemination of the sustainable message to the general public.  Also, we should encourage designers and manufacturers to increase the utilization of organic fabrics in their clothes and in fact make it a selling point. 

Reference:

1. Moral Fabric:Clothiers go organic www.reuters.com/article/idUS103848790920100822